How to Switch Your eTrike Twist Throttle From Right to Left (or Left to Right)

Why the Side Your Throttle Sits On Matters More Than You Think

Most people never give a second thought to which side of the handlebar their throttle lives on. The bike shows up, the throttle is on the right, and that’s that. But for a lot of riders, especially the folks who ride electric trikes, that one factory decision can be the difference between a ride that feels easy and a ride that leaves a hand aching for the rest of the day.

Dustin, our head fit specialist, has spent about 20 years working in the bike and e-bike industry, and one request comes up again and again from trike owners: can the throttle be moved to the other side? A good number of our riders live with arthritis in their hands, or have limited movement after an injury, a stroke, or simply years of wear and tear. Very often one hand has noticeably more grip strength, flexibility, and control than the other. If the throttle happens to be mounted on the weaker side, every ride means asking that hand to do the job it’s least equipped for.

The good news is that swapping a twist throttle from the right side to the left (or the other way around) is a straightforward job. You don’t need to go hunting for a whole new e-bike or e-trike just because the throttle came on the wrong side. With a replacement throttle that costs roughly the price of a nice lunch, a handful of Allen keys, a flathead screwdriver, and an hour or so of patience, most riders can make the change at home.

In this guide we’ll walk through the entire process exactly the way Dustin did it on a Simple Glide eTrike in our shop. We’ll cover how to pick the right replacement part, how to get stubborn grips off without tearing them, how to shuffle the brake lever, shifter, and pedal assist controls around to make room, and how to reroute the throttle wire so it’s tidy and protected. We’ll also share some tips for testing your work and troubleshooting if something doesn’t behave the way you expect.

When a manufacturer builds an e-bike or e-trike, someone has to decide where every control goes. Brake levers, a shifter, the pedal assist control pad, a bell, a display, and the throttle all compete for a limited amount of handlebar real estate. There’s no single industry standard, so the choice varies from brand to brand and even from model to model.

On our trikes, twist throttles are generally mounted on the right side of the handlebar, while thumb throttles have often gone on the left. If you browse the wider market, you’ll see every combination imaginable: left twist throttles, right twist throttles, left thumb throttles, right thumb throttles. Each brand is making a reasonable guess about what will suit most riders, but a reasonable guess for most riders will never be the perfect setup for everyone.

That’s really the heart of this whole project. A factory has to choose one configuration, but your hands are your own. If you’re right-handed and healthy, a right-side twist throttle probably feels natural. If your right hand is the one with arthritis, or if a shoulder issue makes twisting on that side uncomfortable, the "standard" setup is working against you.

It’s also worth remembering that the throttle isn’t something you touch once and forget. On a trike especially, many riders lean on the throttle for starting from a stop, getting up a driveway, or giving themselves a break on a long stretch. That’s a lot of repetitive wrist rotation over the course of a ride. Putting that motion on your stronger, more comfortable hand pays off every single time you head out.

Dustin demonstrated the swap on our Simple Glide eTrike, but the same basic approach applies to several of our models that use a twist throttle, including the Relaxed Body eTrike, the Simple Step Through Fat Tire eTrike, and the Simple Step Through 20 inch. If you own one of these, the steps below should look very familiar once you’re standing over your own handlebars.

If you’re still shopping and throttle placement is a big deal for you, it’s worth browsing our electric trikes with throttle control and our electric trikes for seniors with an eye on how each one’s cockpit is laid out. Riders who also need an easy way on and off the trike may want to look at our easy-to-mount eTrikes with a low step-thru as well.

Owners of other brands can follow along too. The exact screw sizes, the routing of the cables, and the way the controls are stacked will differ, but the logic is identical: unplug the old throttle, strip the handlebar down far enough to make room, rearrange the controls, install the new throttle, reroute the wire, and tighten everything back up. Just expect a few surprises and take your time when something doesn’t match what you see here.

Before you order a part, take a minute to decide whether a twist throttle is really the best choice for your hands. This guide is about moving a twist throttle from one side to the other, but the same connector and the same installation process often apply to thumb throttles, and some riders find a thumb throttle far more comfortable.

A twist throttle works like a motorcycle grip. You rotate a section of the handlebar toward you to add power. It’s intuitive, it lets you hold the grip in a natural position, and it spreads the effort across your whole hand and wrist. The trade-off is that it requires wrist rotation, which can be uncomfortable for people with arthritis in the wrist or with reduced range of motion.

A thumb throttle is a small lever you push with your thumb. Your wrist stays still and your hand stays wrapped around a regular grip. For many riders with sore wrists, that’s a relief. On the other hand, if your thumb joints are the problem area, holding a lever down for a long stretch can be tiring.

There’s no universal right answer. Some riders want a twist throttle on the left. Some want a thumb throttle on the right. The best thing you can do is pay attention to how your hands feel during and after a ride and choose the motion that causes the least discomfort. If you’re unsure what would suit your body best, our team is happy to talk it through. You can start with our personal fitting consultation, which is built around exactly this kind of real-world detail.

For the demonstration, Dustin simply bought a replacement twist throttle on Amazon. It cost somewhere around $15 to $20, and there are plenty of similar options available. You’ll also find components on wholesale sites such as Alibaba that ship directly to your home. Price and source matter much less than one key detail: the connector.

To find out what connector your trike uses, follow the throttle cable down from the handlebar until you reach the point where it plugs into the rest of the wiring. On our trikes, that connection is intentionally left outside the cable housing so it’s easy to reach. Some brands tuck it underneath the wrap or housing, which makes the job a bit more annoying, but it’s still not a big deal. You’ll just need to unravel the wrap to get at it.

When you find the connector, look at how many pins it has. On the Simple Glide, it’s a three-pin connection. When Dustin searched for replacement throttles, most of the twist throttles he came across used this same three-pin layout, and so did a number of thumb throttles. It’s a very common setup.

So the rule is simple: whatever your existing connector looks like, your replacement throttle needs to match it. Count the pins, compare the shape of the plug, and if possible take a clear photo of it before you shop so you can compare it against product images. If the listing doesn’t show the connector clearly or describe the pin count, move on to one that does. A throttle with the wrong plug won’t do you any good, no matter how nice it looks.

A couple of other things are worth checking while you shop. Look at the handlebar diameter the throttle is designed to clamp onto, and make sure it will fit your bar. Also check whether the throttle includes extras. The original throttle on the Simple Glide has a small kill switch built in, which we’ll talk about later. The replacement Dustin installed didn’t have one. Neither option is wrong, but you should know what you’re getting.

You won’t need a full workshop for this job. Here’s what Dustin used on the Simple Glide:

• A set of metric Allen keys. On our trike, the throttle clamp took a 3 mm, the brake lever took a 5 mm, and the pedal assist control took a 2.5 mm. A multi-size Allen key set makes life much easier, because as Dustin joked, the bike seems determined to test you with every size in the kit. Our bikes come with an Allen key set, so if you bought from us you may already have what you need.
• A Phillips screwdriver. The shifter on the left side of the Simple Glide uses a Phillips head screw rather than an Allen bolt.
• A flathead screwdriver, used to pop out the bar end caps and to work its way under the grips.
• Something to help the grips slide. An air compressor with a blow nozzle is the best option if you have one. Otherwise, hairspray is a favorite because it dries tacky and helps the grip stay put once it’s back on. WD-40 will work in a pinch, which is what Dustin used on the day, but it isn’t ideal because it stays slippery.
• A rag or shop towel for wiping off lubricant and cleaning up the bar.
• The replacement throttle with the matching connector.
• Optionally, a small tray or bowl to keep the end caps and loose bits from rolling away. More on that in a moment.

If anything in your toolkit is missing, our parts and accessories section is a good place to look for common replacement components, and our assembly instructions are worth keeping handy if you want a refresher on how the cockpit went together in the first place.

Set yourself up somewhere with good light and enough room to walk around both sides of the trike. Handlebar work involves a lot of looking underneath controls for tiny bolt heads, and a dim garage makes that harder than it needs to be.

Lock the parking brake so the trike can’t roll while you’re leaning on the bars. Dustin made a point of engaging the parking brake before getting into the controls, because once you start loosening things and twisting grips, you don’t want the trike creeping away from you.

As a general good practice with any e-bike or e-trike wiring job, switch the system off before you unplug or plug in electrical connectors. If your battery can be removed easily, taking it out removes any chance of the motor engaging unexpectedly while you’re working on the throttle.

Finally, take a few photos of your handlebar from the front, the top, and each side before you touch anything. Note the angle of the brake levers, where the shifter sits, how the pedal assist pad is positioned, and how the cables are routed. You’re about to move almost everything on the bar, and having a reference picture makes it much easier to get the controls back into a comfortable position.

Start by following the throttle cable down from the right side of the handlebar until you find the connector you identified while shopping. On our trikes it sits outside the cable housing, so it’s quick to spot. Separate the two halves of the connector by pulling on the plug bodies, not the wires themselves. Some connectors have a small locking tab you’ll need to press. Never yank on the cable, since that’s the fastest way to pull a wire loose from its pin.

Once it’s unplugged, set the loose end of the trike’s wiring somewhere it won’t get pinched or snagged while you work on the bars. You’ll be plugging the new throttle into this same connector later, on the opposite side of the handlebar.

Each grip is finished off with a small end cap pushed into the end of the handlebar. Use your flathead screwdriver to gently lever it out. Go slowly and work around the edge rather than prying hard in one spot, so you don’t chew up the plastic.

Put the cap somewhere safe the moment it comes out. During the demonstration, one of these little pieces made a break for it and went bouncing across the floor more than once. It wasn’t a problem, but it’s a good reminder that small parts love to disappear. A magnetic tray or even a coffee mug on the workbench saves you from crawling around looking under the trike later.

Grips are designed to stay put, which is exactly what makes them a pain to remove. The trick is to break the seal between the rubber and the handlebar and get something slippery underneath.

The easiest method, if you have an air compressor, is to slip a blow nozzle under the edge of the grip and shoot air in. The grip balloons out slightly and slides off with very little effort. If you don’t have compressed air, you’ll need some kind of lubricant.

Hairspray is a popular choice because it lubricates while it’s wet, then dries sticky and helps hold the grip in place once it’s reinstalled. Dustin didn’t have hairspray with him, so he used a little WD-40 just to get the grips off. It works, but it isn’t ideal for reinstalling because it stays slick and can let the grip slide around later.

Here’s the technique:

1. Work the tip of your flathead screwdriver gently under the end of the grip to create a small gap between the rubber and the bar.
2. Spray a little lubricant into that gap.
3. Slide the screwdriver in further and start rotating the grip back and forth to spread the lubricant around the inside.
4. Once the grip turns freely, pull it off the end of the bar.

On the Simple Glide, the left grip is noticeably longer than the right, so it took more work. Dustin had to push the screwdriver deeper, add another spray of WD-40 further down inside the grip, and twist it a few more times before it let go. Don’t be discouraged if the second grip fights you more than the first. Patience beats force here.

One important caution: many grips have a softer rubber layer underneath or a molded inner sleeve. When you push your screwdriver in, be careful not to tear the inside of the grip. A torn grip may still go back on, but it won’t sit as firmly and won’t feel as nice in your hand. Keep the screwdriver flat against the handlebar rather than angling it up into the rubber.

When the grips are off, wipe the lubricant off the handlebar and the inside edges of the grips with a rag. Set each grip down next to the side it came from so you don’t mix them up.

With the right grip removed, you can see the throttle assembly clearly. On the Simple Glide’s original throttle there’s a small kill switch. When it’s pressed out, the throttle won’t work at all. Some riders like having that switch as a way to make sure they don’t accidentally hit the throttle while getting on or off the trike. If that’s a feature you want to keep, look for a replacement throttle that includes one. The throttle Dustin installed in the video doesn’t have it, and it worked perfectly well without it.

Underneath the throttle body is a small hole for an Allen key. It’s hard to see at first, so you may need to crouch down and look up from below. On our trike, it took a 3 mm Allen key. Loosen that bolt and the old throttle slides right off the end of the bar.

If your new throttle is a direct replacement and you’re only moving the position of the existing parts, you can set the old throttle aside. Some riders like to keep it as a spare, which isn’t a bad idea.

Here’s the part that surprises people. Moving the throttle to the other side isn’t just about sliding a new part onto the left bar. The left side of the handlebar is already occupied by a brake lever, the pedal assist control, and on the Simple Glide, the twist shifter for the gears. To make room for the new throttle, those parts all have to shift inward, toward the center of the bar.

Look underneath each control for its mounting screw:

• The brake lever on our trike uses a 5 mm Allen bolt. Loosen it enough that the lever can slide along the bar, but there’s no need to remove it completely.
• The pedal assist control pad is held by a much smaller bolt. Dustin’s first guess was 2 mm, but it turned out to be 2.5 mm. If a key feels sloppy in the bolt head, try the next size up before you round anything off.
• The twist shifter also clamps onto the bar and will need loosening so it can move.

Once everything is loose, you can slide the controls around freely. It’s a bit like rearranging furniture: everything moves at once for a minute and then you figure out where it all belongs.

On the right side, which used to hold the throttle, you’ll also loosen the brake lever and, depending on your trike, the other shifter or controls, so they can slide outward a little to fill the space and sit comfortably under your hand. On the Simple Glide, that right-side shifter is fastened with a Phillips screw rather than an Allen bolt.

Now comes the part that’s a little less mechanical and a little more personal. With all of the left-side controls loose, slide the new twist throttle onto the end of the bar and start figuring out where everything should sit.

The order on the bar, moving from the end inward, will typically be grip and throttle at the outside, then the shifter, the brake lever, and the pedal assist pad. Exactly how you stack them depends on what’s comfortable. You want the brake lever within easy reach of your fingers without having to let go of the throttle, the shifter where your thumb or hand can reach it naturally, and the pedal assist buttons where you can press them without contorting your wrist.

Dustin tried a few positions before settling on one he liked. That’s completely normal. Hold the grip area as if you were riding, reach for each control, and adjust until nothing feels like a stretch. If you have a weaker hand, pay special attention to the brake lever position on that side. You want to be able to squeeze it firmly without straining.

In the first pass, he found he still needed a little more space on the bar to fit the grip all the way on, so everything had to slide inward a bit further. Don’t tighten anything yet. You’re just roughing in the positions so the grip can go back on.

Slide the left grip back onto the handlebar so it sits snug against the new throttle. If you have hairspray, this is where it really earns its place. A light spray inside the grip lets it slide on easily, and as it dries it locks the grip in place so it won’t twist or creep when you’re riding.

Because Dustin used WD-40 to remove the grips, he noted that this is exactly why hairspray is the better option. WD-40 stays slippery, which can let a grip slide around. If you used WD-40 too, wipe the bar and the inside of the grip as clean and dry as you can before reinstalling, and check the grip again after a few rides.

Once the grip is on, slide the other controls into their final positions against it. Hold the bar like you’re riding and make sure it all feels good. When it does, you’re ready to deal with the wiring.

On the right side, refit the grip in the space where the throttle used to be, wipe off any excess lubricant, and push the end cap back in. You can leave the left end cap off for now if it makes access easier, but don’t forget it before you finish.

The new throttle is now on the left side, but the connector it needs to plug into is still sitting where the old throttle used to be, near the right side of the trike’s wiring. Your job now is to bring the two together neatly.

Wiring layouts vary from bike to bike and trike to trike, so what follows is how it’s done on our trikes. On the Simple Glide, Dustin worked the throttle connection out of the cable housing just a little, enough to give the wire some slack. That let him run the connection over to the left side, where it could meet the new throttle’s cable.

Plug the new throttle into the connector, making sure the pins line up and the plug seats fully. If your connector has a locking tab, you should feel or hear it click. A half-seated connector is one of the most common reasons a throttle doesn’t work after a swap, so give it a gentle tug afterward to confirm it’s secure.

Next, tidy the cable. Put the housing or wrap back over the wires so they’re protected, and route the throttle cable along the handlebar so it doesn’t snag on anything. Then do the same thing for the other side. Dustin unraveled the wrap on the other cable run, positioned the wires, and twisted it all back together so everything ran cleanly.

A few things to watch for as you route the wire:

• Turn the handlebars all the way left and right. The throttle cable needs enough slack that it never pulls tight at full lock.
• Keep the cable away from anywhere it could be pinched, such as between the handlebar and the frame, or under a clamp.
• Make sure it doesn’t interfere with the brake cable or the shift cable. Each should move freely.

With all the controls in place and the wiring routed, it’s time to lock things in. Work methodically from one control to the next so you don’t miss anything.

1. Tighten the pedal assist control with the 2.5 mm Allen key.
2. Tighten the twist shifter in its new position.
3. Tighten the brake lever with the 5 mm Allen key. Check the lever angle before you fully snug it so it lines up comfortably with your wrist when you’re seated.
4. Tighten the new throttle’s clamp so it won’t rotate on the bar, while still leaving the twisting section free to turn smoothly.
5. Move to the other side and slide the brake lever over into a comfortable position, then lock it in place.
6. Tighten the right-side shifter, which on the Simple Glide uses a Phillips screw.
7. Push both end caps back into the ends of the handlebar.

You’ll notice that once everything is tightened, the controls feel a lot more solid than they did while you were moving things around. That’s normal. Snug is the goal. You want controls that won’t slip when you squeeze or twist them, but you don’t want to crank down so hard that you crack a plastic housing or strip a small bolt. The tiny bolts on items like the pedal assist pad are especially easy to overtighten, so use gentle pressure there.

Before moving on, gather up your tools and parts. Dustin made a point of putting everything away before testing, simply so nothing went missing. It’s a good habit, and it also lets you do a quick check that there’s no stray bolt or end cap left over that should be on the bike.

Now for the moment of truth. Switch the trike back on (reinstalling the battery first if you removed it). With the parking brake still engaged or with the trike safely secured, give the new throttle a gentle twist. You should hear and see the motor respond.

When Dustin did this, the throttle worked right away. The trike had gone from a right-hand throttle to a left-hand throttle in a single session, and as he put it, the whole thing turned out to be a pretty easy process.

Before riding off, run through a short checklist:

• Twist the throttle and let it go. It should spring back to zero on its own, and the motor should stop when you release it.
• Squeeze both brake levers firmly. They should feel just as they did before, and the motor should cut out as expected when you brake.
• Run through the gears to confirm the shifter still works smoothly.
• Press each button on the pedal assist control and make sure the levels change on the display.
• Turn the handlebars fully in both directions while watching the cables. Nothing should pull tight or catch.
• Grab each grip and try to twist it. If a grip moves, it needs to be cleaned and refitted, ideally with hairspray.

Once everything checks out, take a short, slow ride somewhere quiet, like your driveway or an empty parking lot, before heading out on your normal route. Get a feel for the new throttle position and make sure you’re comfortable reaching the brakes and other controls with the new layout. If any control feels slightly off, it’s quick to loosen a bolt and adjust it now while the tools are still within reach.

Most swaps go smoothly, but if the motor doesn’t respond to the new throttle, don’t panic. Work through these common causes before assuming anything is broken.

The connector isn’t fully seated. This is by far the most common culprit. Unplug it, check that the pins are straight and undamaged, and plug it back in firmly until it clicks or seats completely.

The connector doesn’t match. If the replacement throttle plug looks similar but isn’t quite the same as the original, it may not make proper contact even if it physically fits. Compare the pin count and layout again against your trike’s side of the connection.

A kill switch is engaged. If your new throttle has a kill switch, make sure it’s in the on position. If you reused any part of the old assembly, check that its switch isn’t pressed out.

The brake cutoff is active. Many e-bikes and e-trikes cut motor power when a brake lever is pulled. If you shifted a brake lever and it’s now resting slightly against something, or the parking brake is holding it engaged, the system may think you’re braking. Check the brake levers and test again.

A wire was pinched or pulled. Trace the throttle cable from the handlebar to the connector and look for kinks, flattened spots, or places where it’s under tension.

The display or system needs a restart. Turn the trike off, wait a moment, and turn it back on. Check your display for any error codes. If you need a replacement, we carry e-bike displays as well as batteries and chargers.

If you’ve been through all of these and still can’t get it working, reach out to our team through our contact page. Describe what you’ve done and include photos of the connector and handlebar setup if you can. It makes diagnosing the problem much faster.

One of the most freeing things about this project is realizing you don’t have to settle. If you love everything about a particular trike except that the throttle is on the wrong side, you don’t need to keep searching for a different model that happens to come with your preferred setup. You can get the trike that fits you best and adjust the controls afterward.

Replacement throttles are widely available. Dustin picked his up on Amazon, and wholesale marketplaces like Alibaba offer plenty of components that ship directly to your house. Whichever route you take, the single most important thing is that the connection on the new part matches the connection on your trike. Check the pin count, check the plug shape, and when in doubt, ask the seller to confirm before you buy.

It’s also worth thinking about quality. A throttle is a control that directly affects how your motor behaves, so it’s not the place to buy the cheapest no-name part with no reviews. Look for listings with clear photos, good feedback, and complete specifications. A spring that returns reliably to zero and a smooth, consistent action make a real difference to how confident you’ll feel riding.

Moving the throttle is often the first step riders take toward a more comfortable setup, but it doesn’t have to be the last. While you have the handlebar apart, it’s a great time to think about the rest of your controls and how they interact with your hands.

Brake lever reach. If you have small hands or limited finger strength, the distance from the grip to the brake lever matters. Many levers have a small reach-adjustment screw. Bringing the lever closer to the grip can make braking much easier.

Lever angle. Brake levers should line up with your forearm when you’re seated in your normal riding position, so your wrist stays straight as you squeeze. Levers that point too high or too low force your wrist to bend every time you brake.

Pedal assist placement. If pressing the small buttons on the pedal assist pad is awkward, try rotating it on the bar or moving it closer to your thumb. A few degrees of rotation can make it far easier to change levels without letting go of the grip.

Grips. Thicker, softer, or ergonomic grips with a wider palm platform can reduce pressure points for riders with arthritis. Since you’ve already had the grips off once, swapping to a more comfortable style is a small extra step.

Riding posture. A more upright seating position takes weight off your hands entirely. Our most comfortable electric trikes and recumbent eTrikes are designed with that in mind, and our sixthreezero seats can make a big difference to how supported you feel.

Every one of these small adjustments adds up. A rider who used to come home with sore wrists after twenty minutes can often ride twice as long just by putting the right control on the right hand and tuning the rest of the cockpit around it.

For most riders who are comfortable using basic hand tools, this is a very doable home project. There’s no cutting, no soldering, and nothing that requires specialized equipment. Dustin’s verdict after finishing was simple: installing it is easy.

That said, there’s no shame in asking for help. If your hands make fine work with small Allen keys difficult, which may well be part of why you want the throttle moved in the first place, it may be worth having a friend or family member lend a hand. You can also take your trike to a local bike mechanic. Our warranty page includes information about getting service, and if you’re nearby, you’re always welcome to visit our store and chat with the team in person.

If you do tackle it yourself, the biggest pieces of advice are to take photos before you start, keep track of small parts, go slow with the grips, and test everything thoroughly before your first real ride.

If you’re reading this before you’ve bought an e-trike, it’s worth considering throttle placement as part of your decision, alongside frame style, step-through height, and seat comfort. Ask yourself which hand is your strongest, whether twisting or pushing with a thumb feels better, and how you’ll use the throttle day to day.

Just remember that the throttle placement you see in product photos isn’t necessarily permanent. As this guide shows, a well-designed trike can be adapted. What can’t easily be changed is the frame itself, so focus first on finding the right overall fit. Our full lineup of electric tricycles includes fat tire eTrikes, folding eTrikes, cargo eTrikes, and more, and our buyer’s guide walks through the features that matter most.

If you’d like a second opinion, the fitting consultation connects you with Dustin directly, so you can describe your hands, your mobility, and your riding goals, and get a recommendation from a real person who has spent decades helping riders get comfortable. And with our 30-day test ride, you can try your trike at home and make sure the setup works for you.

A throttle on the wrong side might seem like a small annoyance, but for riders with arthritis, limited hand mobility, or one hand that simply works better than the other, it can shape the entire experience of riding. The good news is that fixing it doesn’t require a new trike or an expensive repair. A $15 to $20 throttle with a matching three-pin connector, a few Allen keys, a screwdriver, and some careful work with the grips is all it takes.

To recap, you’ll unplug the old throttle at its connector, pop out the end caps, work the grips off, remove the old throttle with a 3 mm Allen key, loosen and rearrange the brake lever, shifter, and pedal assist control, fit the new throttle on the opposite side, refit the grips, reroute and reconnect the wiring, tighten everything back down, and test it all before you ride.

Take your time, trust your hands to tell you what feels right, and don’t be afraid to fine-tune positions after your first few rides. Riding should feel good, and the controls should work for you, not the other way around. For more step-by-step guides like this one, browse our video blog and the rest of our Bike Advice articles.