How to Assemble the Double Motor, Double Battery EVRYjourney Ebike Rickshaw

Meet the Double Motor, Double Battery Rickshaw and What Arrives at Your Door

I've spent 20 years in the bike and e-bike industry, and I've built a lot of rickshaws in that time. The new double motor, double battery EVRYjourney Rickshaw is one I've been excited to show people. It's new to the sixthreezero lineup for 2026, and the idea behind it is easy to grasp: two motors give you more power, and two batteries give you more range. If you've been browsing our electric rickshaw collection and wondering which model makes sense for longer outings, this is the one built around going farther with less effort.

Here's what surprises most people. If you've watched any of my other rickshaw assembly walkthroughs, this one is going to feel very familiar. Adding a second motor and a second battery didn't add much assembly for you at home, because all of that arrives already installed. The rear wheels, both motors, and both batteries are on the bike when it comes off the truck. Your job is the same short list of tasks you'd have with any of our rickshaws: install the front wheel, set up the front end, mount the rear bench seat, put on the pedals and saddle, and power it on.

I'm going to take you through the build in the exact order I do it. I'll give you every tool size as we go, and I'll point out the few spots where I slipped up on camera. Those are usually the most useful parts of any assembly guide, because they're the things the instruction sheet doesn't warn you about.

The box: size and weight

Your rickshaw ships in one large box on a small pallet. The box measures 71 1/2 inches long by 35 inches wide. It's 32 1/2 inches tall on its own, and the pallet feet underneath raise the total height to 34 inches. Gross weight, meaning the bike plus all the packaging, is 160 pounds.

That weight matters on delivery day. If you can be home when the freight truck shows up, ask the driver to set the box where you plan to build. A garage or a flat driveway with room to walk all the way around the box is ideal. If you're not home, you'll be moving it yourself, and 160 pounds is a serious box. I dragged mine into position on a smooth floor, and it worked, but it wasn't quick. If you have a helper, this is a good time to call them. You can find general delivery details on our shipping page.

Out of the packaging, the rickshaw itself weighs 128 pounds. That's not light, and I won't pretend it is. What I will tell you is that once you're riding, the weight really isn't something you fight, because you've got two motors moving it. Where the weight does come into play is during assembly, specifically when you lift the front end to install the wheel. I'll flag that step when we get there.

Tools to have ready

You don't need a full shop to build this rickshaw, but having everything laid out before you start makes the job go much faster. Here's what I used:

• Tin snips, a sharp pair of scissors, or a box cutter for the zip ties and the box itself
• A 19 mm wrench or socket for the front axle nuts
• A 15 mm wrench for the pedals
• A 10 mm wrench or socket for the rear bench seat bolts
• An 8 mm wrench for the rear fender bolts and the headlight bracket
• 3 mm, 5 mm, and 6 mm Allen keys
• A Phillips head screwdriver for the front fender screw
• A tape measure for setting the rear fender position

A ratcheting socket set isn't strictly required, but I'd recommend one. Several of the bolts on this build sit in tight spots, and a ratchet saves you a lot of time compared to turning a wrench an eighth of a turn at a time. I'd also hang on to the foam packaging when you unpack. I used a piece of it as a kneeling pad and another as a soft surface to rest parts on so nothing got scratched.

What's inside the box

Once I sliced the top open, the first thing I pulled out was the rear bench seat. I set it on top of a piece of foam so it wouldn't get scuffed. Next out were the rear fenders, which I set alongside it. Then there's a smaller accessory box tucked in with the bike. Inside that box you'll find:

• Your pedals
• The instructions
• Your mirrors
• The seat post
• Two chargers, one for each battery
• A cap for the headset
• A small plastic decorative plug for the top of the stem
• Your saddle

A quick note on the headset cap and that little plastic plug. Both are decorative. The cap sits on top of the stem and covers the headset, and the plug goes into the top of the stem. Neither one does anything functional, so if you lose one, the bike rides exactly the same. I went ahead and put the cap on right away since I had it in my hand. The plug I held onto until the very end, and I'll explain why when we get to the handlebars.

When you lift away the last piece of cardboard, you'll see just how complete this rickshaw is out of the box. The front wheel and the rear bench seat are the two big jobs. Everything at the back of the bike, including the drive hardware, is already done for you.

Cutting the zip ties

The rickshaw is held in place with a lot of zip ties, and the first real job is cutting every one of them. You've got three good options. A box cutter works, and it's what I used on the box, but be careful around the bike. It's very easy to nick a tire or scratch the frame with a blade. My preference for zip ties is a pair of tin snips. They cut cleanly and there's no exposed blade near your paint. A sharp pair of scissors will also do the job.

Go all the way around the bike and get every tie. Once they're all free, pull the front wheel out of the box and set it to the side with the other parts. Don't try to lift the bike out yet.

Turn the box into a garage door

This is my favorite trick for any big e-trike box, and it saves you from wrestling a 128-pound bike over a cardboard wall. Take your box cutter and slit straight down the vertical edges of the box on one end. This box is double-walled, so you'll be cutting through two layers. Go slowly and keep checking that the blade isn't anywhere near the frame. Then repeat on the other edge.

Once both edges are cut, that end of the box folds down like a little garage door. Now you've got an open ramp instead of a wall. There's a bonus here, too: if you ever need to reuse the box, you can simply stand that panel back up and tape the edges closed again.

Work on the bike while it's still in the box

Here's something I do on purpose. I don't pull the bike out right away. If you can get the front wheel installed while the rickshaw is still sitting in the box, you can then roll the whole thing out on all three wheels. That is far easier than trying to drag or carry it out with the front end resting on the fork.

So the next step is to strip off the bubble wrap around the front end. Once that's off, I slide the handlebars into the stem just to get them up and out of the way. We'll set their height and alignment properly a little later.

Remove the fork spacer

Look down at the bottom of the fork and you'll see a metal piece sitting in the dropouts. It looks like an axle, but it isn't. It's packaging, and its only job is to keep the fork from getting bent in transit. Remove it and toss it. Sometimes this piece is snug enough that you'll need a wrench to loosen it. On mine, it just rolled right off.

Prepare the front wheel hardware

Now grab the front wheel. There's a piece of packaging on the wheel that you can pull off and discard. You'll also see hardware threaded onto both ends of the axle. On one side, remove the bolt and the two washers. On the other side, you'll take off the same bolt but leave the small washer in place. Keep everything you remove together on your foam so none of it rolls away.

This next part may be a two-person job. The front of the rickshaw is heavy, and you need to lift the fork and guide the wheel in at the same time. If you can't comfortably hold the front end up with one hand, get a helper to lift while you position the wheel.

Don't forget the brake caliper spacer

This is the step I forgot to mention on camera until I was already lifting the fork, so learn from me. Look at the disc brake caliper on the fork. Tucked inside it is a small piece of packaging that keeps the brake pads apart during shipping. Pull it out before you install the wheel. That gap is where the brake rotor slides in, and if the spacer is still there, the rotor won't seat. Our e-trikes with disc brakes all ship this way, so it's a good habit to check for that spacer any time you install a wheel with a rotor.

Line up the notched washer

On the axle you'll notice a washer with a little notch, or lip, on it. That notch has to sit down inside the fork dropout at the bottom. Its purpose is to lock the axle so it can't spin in the fork. To get it in the right spot, spin the wheel until the notch is pointing toward the bottom, in line with the opening of the dropout.

Once it's lined up, lift the fork and bring the wheel forward into the dropouts. As you do, guide the brake rotor into the caliper slot you just cleared. When everything is seated, you should be able to see that lip of the washer sitting inside the fork.

Install the washers and nuts

Order matters here. On each side of the axle, put the thin washer on first, then the thick washer, then the nut. Do one side, then repeat on the other. Hand tighten both nuts for now. We'll put a wrench on them in a minute, right after we connect the motor.

Connect the front motor

Coming off the front hub is the cable for the front motor, and there's a matching connector on the bike. Both halves of the connector have an arrow printed on them. Line those two arrows up and push the connector together. It should go in easily once it's aligned. If you're forcing it, stop and check the arrows again. Once it's seated, thread the outer collar on to keep the connection snug. That's it. Your front motor is connected.

Tighten the axle nuts

Now grab your 19 mm wrench or socket. A ratchet helps a lot here. Tighten each axle nut until it gets genuinely difficult to turn. You want these firm, since this is what holds your front wheel in the fork. Do both sides, and your front wheel is on.

Since we're already working at the front of the bike, I like to finish everything up here before rolling the rickshaw out of the box. That means the front fender, the headlight, and the handlebars.

Mounting the front fender

Take the front fender and remove its packaging. The fender has a mounting tab that goes behind the piece on the fork. On the back side, you'll find a screw that should already be threaded in. Back it out, line up the fender tab with the mounting point, and pass the screw through both. Get it started by hand so you know it's threaded correctly.

This screw takes a Phillips head screwdriver. Honest moment: I didn't have the right size Phillips on hand when I filmed this, so I used my 10 mm wrench on it instead. Either way works. Use whatever fits snugly so you don't strip the head.

Then I made my second small mistake. I tightened it too much before I had the fender positioned. So let me save you the step: snug the screw just enough to hold things, then position the fender, then do the final tightening.

Getting the fender height right

Here's the important part. The fender tab is slotted, so it can slide up and down. You want to slide it up as high as it will go. If you leave it low, the fender may rub on the tire as you ride, and that's both annoying and hard on the fender. At the same time, make sure the headlight is pulled up and that the bracket piece on the back is all the way up as well.

Once everything is raised, tighten the screw down firmly. After that, the fender is something you can nudge by hand if you need a small adjustment.

When I stepped back to look at mine, the fender looked a little off. If yours does too, the fix is simple. Gently bend the tab a little until the fender sits where it should. That's all it takes.

Snugging up the headlight

If the headlight feels loose on its mount, it's not a big deal. Grab a 3 mm Allen key and an 8 mm wrench. Hold one side with the wrench and tighten with the Allen key until the light is firmly in place and aimed where you want it.

Setting the handlebar stem

Before you roll the bike out, this is also a convenient time to lock in the handlebars. At the top of the stem is a screw that takes a 6 mm Allen key. Before you tighten it, line the stem up so it's pointing straight ahead in line with the front wheel. Look down from above the bars and make sure the handlebars are square to the tire. Then tighten the screw.

Remember that little plastic decorative plug from the accessory box? This is where it goes, pushed into the top of the stem. But I'd hold off on it for now. Once that plug is in, it's a little tricky to get back out, and you'll probably want to adjust the handlebar height after you've taken a ride or two. Leave it out until you've settled on a height you like.

Adjusting handlebar tilt

There's one more adjustment I want you to know about. On the handlebar clamp there are two bolts that take a 5 mm Allen key. Loosening those lets you change the tilt angle of the handlebars, rolling them forward or back.

In practice, you may end up adjusting these two bolts and the 6 mm stem bolt a few times during your first rides. That's normal. It usually takes a little riding to figure out the tilt angle and height that feel right for your arms, wrists, and back. Make a small change, ride, and repeat. If you'd like help figuring out the right fit before or after you buy, our team offers fitting help through the get fitted page.

Rolling it out of the box

With the front wheel on and the front end set up, the rickshaw is now on all three wheels. Fold down your garage door and simply wheel it out. You'll see right away why I do it this way. There's no forcing, no lifting, and no risk of scraping the frame on the cardboard. The bike just rolls out.

While the empty box is sitting there with its door open, it's a great container for your trash. Stuff all the bubble wrap, cardboard inserts, cut zip ties, and that fork spacer back inside so your work area stays clear. Then strip off any remaining packaging from the bike itself.

At this point you can see the rickshaw in all its glory. The front is done, the back is already built, and there's one major job left: the rear bench seat.

The rear bench seat is the most time-consuming part of the whole assembly. It isn't difficult, but there are several bolts, some of them in tight spots, and the order you do things in makes a real difference. Take your time here. This is the seat your passengers will be riding on, so it's worth getting right. If carrying people is why you're interested in a rickshaw, you can also see our full lineup of e-trikes built for passengers.

Flip the seat and attach the rear fenders first

Start by flipping the bench seat upside down. I set mine on the foam so the cushion and finish wouldn't get scratched. The rear fenders mount to the underside of the seat assembly, and you want to install them now, before the seat goes on the bike. I'll explain why in a moment.

First, check the fender orientation. Each fender has a section that's designed to face the rider. That's the side that protects your legs from whatever the inside tread of the rear tire throws up. Make sure that section is facing forward toward the rider before you bolt anything down.

Each fender attaches with two screws on top. Another honest moment: when I went to install the first fender, one of its screws was missing from where it should have been, so I had to dig it out of the box. If something seems to be missing, check the box and packaging carefully before you assume it didn't ship. Small hardware likes to hide in the corners.

Line up the fender with its mounting holes, pull out the screws, and pass them through with one washer on either side. Hand tighten both screws on each fender. Don't fully tighten anything yet, because you're about to set the position.

Set the fender gap with a tape measure

Here's where the tape measure comes in. I set each fender so it sits about an inch and a quarter from the seat. You can technically adjust the fenders later, but in practice it's a hassle. Once the seat is installed, these fender screws end up down near the tires, and getting a wrench in there becomes awkward. So it's worth getting the position as accurate as you can right now while everything is upside down and easy to reach.

When you're happy with the position, grab your 8 mm wrench. Tighten the screws to the point where things get snug and the fender becomes harder to slide, but not so tight that you can't make a final nudge.

One more detail. When you fit the fenders, push them all the way in as far as they'll go. You'll notice a small gap remaining at the mounting area. That's normal, and it's there because of the screws inside. Just seat the fender as far in as it goes, tighten it down, and it'll sit perfectly once the seat is on the bike.

Prepare the frame mounting points

Now head over to the rear of the frame where the bench seat mounts. You'll see six bolts there. Leave the two in the middle alone. Remove the other four, and set them aside somewhere safe along with their washers and nuts. Those four are what you'll use to attach the seat.

Set the seat in place

Flip the seat right side up and set it down onto the frame. With the seat resting in position, open the gate at the back so you can reach inside the storage area. I put a piece of foam down to kneel on here, because you'll be leaning in for a few minutes and your knees will thank you.

Inside the bottom of the basket you'll find the holes where the bolts go through. Find the first one, poke the bolt down through it, and you'll see it come out the bottom through the frame mount. Feed it all the way through. The first bolt is the hardest because you're lining things up for the first time. After it's in, the rest drop into place much more easily.

Do the same with the second front bolt. Then move to the two rear bolts, which sit farther back.

Don't skip the black brackets

This is important. The two rear bolts need to pass through the black brackets you'll see underneath. Those brackets are extra support that ties the seat structure to the frame, and they're there for strength. Make sure each rear bolt goes through its bracket before you put the washer and nut on.

Hand tighten everything first

Reach underneath, find the end of each bolt poking through, and thread on the washer and nut by hand. Here's the key: don't fully tighten any of these until all four are hand tightened. If you crank down one bolt early, the others may not line up, and you'll be fighting to get the last one started. Get all four started and snug by hand, then go back and tighten.

On one of the front bolts on my build, the mount was tucked behind some wiring. I had to gently pull the wiring back to reach it. If you run into the same thing, ease the wires aside rather than forcing a tool past them. You don't want to pinch or nick a cable.

Final tightening

These bolts take a 10 mm. This is where a ratcheting socket set really earns its place, because you'll be working in a tight space under the seat. Go around and tighten all four bolts down firmly. When you're done, the bench should feel solid with no rocking.

With the bench seat installed, the hard work is done. What's left is quick: pedals, the saddle and seat post, and a tour of the controls.

Installing the pedals

Look at the inside face of each pedal and you'll see it stamped with an R or an L. That tells you which side of the bike it goes on. Here's the one rule to remember: both pedals tighten by turning them forward, toward the front of the bike. The left pedal is reverse threaded, so if you turn it the way you'd normally tighten a bolt, you'll be loosening it. Thread each pedal in by hand first to make sure it's going in straight. Then grab a 15 mm wrench and give each one a good firm crank down.

Installing the seat post and saddle

Take the seat post and the saddle. On the saddle clamp, the screw needs to go toward the back. You'll probably need to loosen the top part of the clamp a touch to create enough space to slide the saddle rails in. Loosen it just to the point where the hardware isn't going to fall off. Then work the saddle into the clamp, rotate the clamp so it's seated, and snug it up slightly.

Before you fully tighten it, set your saddle tilt. The clamp lets the saddle angle forward or back. I like mine tipped back just a touch. Not much, just enough to feel natural. That's why I only snug the clamp a little at first. It holds the saddle where you put it while still letting you adjust it. Once it looks right, hold it steady and tighten the clamp down with your 6 mm Allen key. Check the angle one more time afterward to make sure it didn't shift while you tightened.

The rickshaw comes with a suspension seat post. If you find that it puts your saddle too high, you can swap it for a different seat post. Then just slide the post into the frame.

Adjusting the quick release tension

The seat post is held with a quick release. On one side of the quick release lever there's a 5 mm Allen key bolt. If you can close the quick release by hand but the seat still slips, tighten that bolt a little with your 5 mm Allen key. It makes the lever harder to clamp, but it grips the seat post more firmly. Adjust it until the lever closes with firm hand pressure and the saddle stays put.

Keys, batteries, and chargers

Now the part that's unique to this model. You've got two batteries, and each one comes with two sets of keys. The two batteries charge in different places. One has its charge port on one side of the bike, and the other charges on the opposite side.

Pay attention to the plugs. One battery uses a single-prong plug, and the other uses a three-prong plug. You get a separate charger for each battery, and they aren't interchangeable, so match each charger to its battery. I'd suggest labeling them as soon as you unpack so you're never guessing.

Turning it on

To power up, first make sure the battery is switched on at the battery itself. Then press and hold the power button on the handlebar control until the display turns on. One thing I really like on this model is that the screen shows an indicator for both batteries, so you can see where each one stands at a glance.

A quick tour of the controls

On the handlebar controls you've got a horn and a light switch. When the light is on, an indicator shows up on the display. This rickshaw also has reverse, which you flip on with a switch on the controls. If maneuvering in tight spaces is a priority, it's worth looking at our reverse gear e-trikes to see how this feature works across the lineup. When you test it, put the assist level at zero while you're stationary so the bike doesn't move unexpectedly.

There are turn signals as well, and those also show on the display, which is a nice touch when you're riding with passengers behind you. The throttle sits on the right side, under your thumb. If a throttle is a must-have for you, our e-trikes with throttle control are all collected in one place. You've also got your gear shifter on the handlebars and parking brakes, which you'll want to use any time passengers are getting on or off.

The finishing touch

Last but not least, once you've settled on your handlebar height, push that little plastic decorative plug into the top of the stem. It may need a light tap to seat. I'll admit mine went in a little crooked. You can probably get yours straighter than I did. With that, you're fully assembled and ready to ride.

Support, test rides, and the rider community

If you have any questions during or after assembly, reach out to our team at theteam@sixthreezero.mom, call us at 310-982-2877, or use our contact page. We're happy to help, whether it's a stubborn bolt or a question about range.

Every rickshaw comes with our 30-day test ride. If you don't love it in the first 30 days, send it back, no questions asked. We also back it with a one-year warranty on parts and labor, so if anything goes wrong in that first year, we'll take care of it.

If you'd like to ride one before you buy, come see us in San Clemente, California. You can find our address and hours on our visit our store page. Test riding any of our e-trikes in person is the best way to make sure you're choosing the right one. You can also browse our full range of electric trikes to compare options.

I'd also encourage you to join our Facebook group, sixthreezero Pedalers, before you buy. There are thousands of members, and talking with real owners is a great way to make sure you're making the right choice. Once your rickshaw arrives, post in the group and make some friends. And finally, download the sixthreezero app to track your rides and compete on the leaderboard.

It's your journey, so enjoy the ride.