Common eTrike Noises and How to Fix Them at Home

Why a Brand-New eTrike Can Make Noise

You unbox your new electric trike, put the last few pieces together, take it out for its first spin, and then you hear it. A squeal when you squeeze the brakes. A light tick-tick-tick from somewhere near the back wheel. A rattle every time you roll over a crack in the sidewalk. It's easy to jump to the worst conclusion and assume something is broken, or that the trike just isn't built well.

Take a breath. In the large majority of cases, those sounds come from small things that shifted during shipping or assembly, and most of them take a few minutes and a basic tool or two to sort out. This guide is built on the experience of Dustin, who has spent more than 20 years in the bike and eBike business and has personally assembled hundreds of trikes and thousands of bikes. He has heard just about every noise a bicycle can make, and he has walked a lot of riders through fixing them over the phone and in person.

A bit of background helps explain why noises show up at all. At sixthreezero, every trike is fully built at the factory, checked, and then partially taken apart again so it fits in the box. Brakes are set, gears are tuned, and the whole thing goes through quality control before it ships. But a box crossing the country gets bumped, tipped on its side and dropped onto loading docks. Then someone, usually the rider rather than a professional mechanic, puts it back together at home. A cable that was perfectly tensioned at the factory might settle. A fender bracket might get nudged a few millimeters. A brake caliper might shift just enough to kiss the rotor.

None of that means the trike is poorly made. It means it needs the same small round of adjustments every bike in a bike shop gets before it goes out on the sales floor. Shops just do that work behind the scenes, so customers never hear about it.

Below, we'll go through the most common noises one at a time, starting with the ones that are easiest to spot and fix and ending with the ones you should only look into once the simpler explanations are ruled out. We'll also cover the sounds that are completely normal, so you don't spend an afternoon chasing a problem that isn't there. Most of this applies whether you ride one of our electric tricycles, a four-wheel eBike, or a standard two-wheel eBike.

Let's start with the brakes, because they produce two of the most common complaints: a squeal or screech when you pull the levers, and a light rubbing sound while you ride.

First, it helps to know what kind of brakes you have. Many trikes use disc brakes, which come in two types. Mechanical disc brakes are operated by a cable running from the lever to the caliper at the wheel. Hydraulic disc brakes use fluid in a sealed line instead of a cable. Both come preset from the factory, but they behave differently over time.

Hydraulic brakes are more forgiving. The fluid pushes the pads into the correct position each time you squeeze the lever, and as the pads wear, the system compensates. In that sense, they're largely self-adjusting. Mechanical disc brakes don't have that luxury. The cable and caliper can loosen slightly in the box during shipping, and they can drift a little over months of riding too. That's normal, and it's why mechanical brakes need occasional adjustment.

Now, about the squeal. There are a few usual causes.

Contamination on the rotor. The rotor is the metal disc attached to the wheel hub, and the brake pads clamp onto it to slow you down. If any grease, oil, lotion or residue gets on that surface, it changes how the pads grip and often produces a high-pitched squeal. This can happen during assembly from fingers that just handled the chain, from a spray lubricant drifting onto the wheel, or from road grime. The fix is simple: wipe both sides of the rotor with a clean rag and some rubbing alcohol, let it dry, and try again. Avoid touching the braking surface with your bare hands afterward.

The pads themselves. On a brand-new trike, swapping pads shouldn't normally be necessary, but it's worth understanding what kind of pads you're working with. Heavier machines, like electric trikes and four-wheel eBikes, typically come with coarser, harder brake pads. That's a deliberate choice. A heavier vehicle carrying a rider and cargo needs more stopping power, and a coarser pad grabs the rotor more aggressively. The side effect is that these pads can be noisier.

Here's the important part: a loud brake doesn't mean a weak brake. In some cases, it means the opposite. The pads are biting hard, which is exactly what you want when you need to stop a heavy trike quickly. Noise and stopping power are two separate things.

If the noise bothers you, there's a middle path. Brake pads come in different compounds, and you can switch to a softer material. Softer pads tend to be gentler on the rotor and quieter, though they wear down faster. They may also reduce braking power slightly, and whether that's noticeable depends on the rider, the load and the terrain. Changing pads is a job many riders can handle at home with basic tools, and any bike shop can do it quickly if you'd rather not.

If you're shopping for a new trike and stopping power matters to you, our electric trikes with disc brakes are a good place to compare options.

Brake Rubbing: That Faint Swish With Every Wheel Turn

The second brake noise is quieter but more persistent: a soft rubbing or swishing sound that comes and goes as the wheel turns. Sometimes it's a rhythmic tick once per wheel rotation. Sometimes it's a light continuous whisper.

To understand why this happens, picture how a disc brake is put together. The rotor spins between two brake pads that sit inside the caliper. When you pull the lever, the pads squeeze the rotor from both sides. When you let go, the pads back off, but only a tiny bit. The gap between each pad and the rotor is very small by design.

That small gap is a trade-off. You can adjust the pads to sit farther from the rotor, which gives the rotor more room and makes rubbing less likely. But the farther the pads have to travel before they touch the rotor, the softer and less responsive the brake lever feels. Setting the pads close to the rotor gives you a firm, quick, confident brake, which is why bikes are usually set up that way.

Now add the fact that a rotor doesn't have to be bent much to touch a pad. We're talking less than a millimeter of wobble, the kind you'd never see by eye. Shipping, assembly, or even a light knock against a door frame can introduce that much. As the rotor spins, the slightly high spot brushes the pad once per turn, and you hear it.

So is this something you want? Ideally, no. Is it common on bikes with disc brakes? Yes, very. And there's good news: if the rotor is only lightly brushing the pad, that contact tends to wear down the tiny high spot on the pad over a few rides, and the sound often goes away on its own.

You have a few options here:

• Ride it in. If the sound is faint and the brakes work well, a few rides may be all it takes. Dustin admits he often does exactly this. Sometimes he'll hear a little rub on a new bike, decide it's not worth fussing over, and find it gone a couple of rides later.
• Back the pads out slightly. On mechanical disc brakes, you can adjust the pad position so it sits a little farther from the rotor. The goal is to find the point where the rubbing stops but the lever still feels responsive enough for you.
• Check the rotor. If the rubbing is loud or the rotor visibly wobbles as it spins, a bike shop can true it (straighten it) or replace it.

A safety note that applies to every brake adjustment: once you've made a change, test the brakes at walking speed before you ride anywhere. Squeeze each lever firmly. It should engage well before the lever reaches the handlebar, and the trike should stop smoothly. If the lever feels spongy, pulls all the way to the grip, or the brake doesn't hold, don't ride it. Take it to a bike shop or contact us for help.

If brakes are the most obvious source of noise, the chain is the most common. When riders call in about a grinding, scraping or clicking sound they can't place, the chain is very often involved. There are several places a chain can make contact with something it shouldn't, and on a trike there's simply more chain to work with.

Trikes tend to have long chains. The distance from the pedals up front to the drive at the back is much greater than on a typical bicycle. A long chain has more room to swing from side to side, especially as you pick up speed. Our trikes use a chain guide or hanger near the rear to keep the chain from dangling and slapping around, and that takes care of a lot of the movement. But a long chain still has more freedom than a short one.

The most common contact point is the chain guard. The chain guard is the cover that keeps the chain away from your pant legs and shoes, and it's mounted to the frame with brackets. Near the rear in particular, those brackets sit fairly close to the chain. It's not something that happens on every trike, but it does happen: the chain swings slightly and taps or rubs one of the guard's mounting points.

Checking for this is easy and doesn't require tools. Get down near the chain guard and slowly turn the pedals by hand while watching the chain where it passes the guard mounts. If you see it touching, gently push the guard away from the chain. A small amount of hand pressure is usually enough to give it clearance. You're not bending anything dramatically, just nudging it into a spot where the moving chain doesn't reach it.

Don't stop at the chain guard. Take a look at the chain hanger and any other pieces that sit close to the top run of the chain. Trace the whole path of the chain from front to back and make sure nothing is in its way.

One more thing worth knowing: big bumps make chains jump. If you ride off a curb or hit a pothole and hear a single clank, that may simply have been the chain bouncing and briefly hitting the guard. One clank after one big bump isn't a problem. A repeating sound on smooth pavement is the thing to investigate.

Make Sure the Chain Is Fully Seated on the Sprockets

While you're looking at the chain, check how it sits on the sprockets. A sprocket is a toothed wheel that the chain wraps around. There's one up front where the pedals are, and a set of them at the back. The teeth on each sprocket slot into the links of the chain, and that's what lets the chain pull the wheel around.

Occasionally, a chain ends up sitting crooked on a sprocket, not fully dropped into the teeth. When that happens, it may skip a tooth as it turns, which produces a clunk or a grinding sound and can feel like a slip under your feet. It isn't common, but it does happen after shipping and assembly.

Look at the front sprocket first. The chain should sit straight and snug, with every tooth seated in a link. Then check the rear sprockets. Turn the pedals slowly and watch the chain feed on and off at both ends. If anything looks crooked or the chain rides up on a tooth, guide it back into place and turn the pedals again to make sure it stays put. While you're at it, check that the chain has reasonable tension and isn't hanging slack. We'll cover chain tension in more detail later on.

Before we talk about gear noises, it's worth clearing up something that confuses a lot of new eTrike riders. Your trike has two separate systems that both affect how pedaling feels, and they're easy to mix up.

The first is the pedal assist. This is the electric side of things. Our eTrikes and eBikes have five levels of assistance, controlled from the display or button pad on the handlebars. Level five gives you the most help from the motor, and level one gives you the least. Pedal assist controls how much power the motor adds as you pedal. It has nothing to do with the chain moving between sprockets.

The second is the gearing. This is the mechanical side, the same idea as the gears on any multi-speed bicycle you may have ridden over the years. Bikes have come with 21 speeds, 10 speeds, 3 speeds, or a single speed, like a lot of the classic cruisers from the 1950s and 60s. Our electric trikes and bikes have seven speeds. Lower gears make pedaling easier, which is what you want when starting from a stop or climbing a hill. Higher gears make pedaling harder but let each pedal stroke carry you farther, which is what you want once you're moving at speed on flat ground.

The gears work by moving the chain across a set of seven rear sprockets, sometimes called cogs, each a different size. When you click the shifter on the right side of your handlebars, a part called the derailleur guides the chain from one cog to the next, and that changes how much resistance you feel at the pedals.

So when you hear a noise that seems to come and go as you change settings, it helps to ask which setting you changed. If the sound changes when you shift gears, the derailleur and chain are the place to look. If it changes when you change assist level, you're more likely hearing the motor working harder or easier, which is normal and covered further down.

Clicking in Certain Gears: A Sign the Derailleur Needs Tuning

The gears on a sixthreezero trike are tuned at the factory so that each click of the shifter moves the chain cleanly onto the next cog. When everything is right, shifting is smooth and quiet. But the derailleur system depends on cable tension and precise alignment, and shipping and assembly can knock that alignment out a little.

The classic symptom is clicking, chatter or a light grinding noise in one or two gears, but not all of them. You shift into third and hear a rhythmic tick. You shift into fourth and it's silent. Back to third and the tick returns. That pattern almost always means the gears are slightly out of tune. The chain isn't sitting perfectly centered on that cog, so it's brushing against the neighboring one.

Here's a simple test. With the trike moving, or with the rear wheel lifted so you can pedal by hand, shift slowly through all seven gears, one at a time. Listen to each one. If you find gears where the drivetrain runs smoothly and quietly and others where it clicks or rubs, you've found your answer. When the gears are out of tune, it's usually just one or two that misbehave. They may still work fine for riding, just with a bit of chatter. Getting rid of it is usually a very small adjustment.

A derailleur that's further out of adjustment can push the chain too far in one direction or the other, which can cause it to rub on the frame, grind loudly, or even come off the sprockets entirely. If you're hearing a lot of grinding as you pedal, check gear tuning before you assume anything more serious.

Tuning a derailleur can be done at home. It involves adjusting cable tension and the derailleur's limit screws, and we have video guides in our video blog that walk through the process. If you'd rather not do it yourself, any bike shop can handle it. It doesn't matter whether the shop specializes in eBikes or regular bicycles. The derailleur system on our eTrikes is the same type used on our standard seven-speed bikes, and any mechanic who has worked on a geared bicycle will be familiar with it.

If a derailleur ever gets damaged rather than just knocked out of tune, replacement derailleurs are available in our parts section.

This one is a bit more specific to trikes. A lot of riders choose an eTrike precisely because of the big rear basket, and it's one of the most useful features on the trike. It's also a common source of rattling.

There are two possible causes. The first is simple: the basket isn't tightened down fully. Check every bolt that holds the basket to the frame and make sure each one is snug. A basket that's even slightly loose will buzz and clatter over rough ground.

The second cause is vibration. Even a properly tightened basket can vibrate against the frame when you're riding over bumpy terrain, like gravel, broken pavement or brick paths. Metal touching metal makes noise. We've addressed this on most current models, but on some trikes you may still hear it.

The fix is cheap and takes about ten minutes. Pick up some thin double-sided foam tape, the kind used for mounting things to walls. Lift the basket up from its mounts, place a few strips of foam tape where the basket sits against the frame, then lower it back into place and tighten it down. The foam acts as a cushion between the two metal surfaces and soaks up the vibration. We've started doing exactly this on a lot of new models at the factory, so you're simply adding what newer trikes already have.

If you're thinking about upgrading your carrying setup, take a look at our sixthreezero baskets, or browse electric tricycles with a large basket if you're still choosing a trike.

Fender Rattles and Rubs

Fenders are another very common source of rattles and scraping sounds. Dustin has been putting fenders on bikes for over two decades, going all the way back to the early beach cruisers, and he'll be the first to say they've always been a bit of a challenge.

Fenders earn their place. They look good, and they keep water and grit from spraying up onto you and your clothes when you ride through a puddle. But they're thin, they're mounted with fairly small brackets, and they have to sit close to a spinning tire. That makes them sensitive to getting knocked out of position during shipping and assembly.

The first thing to check is almost too obvious to mention, but it catches people every so often. Our trikes ship with a piece of cardboard packaging tucked under the fender to protect it. Make sure you remove it before you ride. If you forget, you'll know right away, because it makes a lot of noise.

After that, it depends on how your fenders are mounted. Some models, like our four-wheel bikes, use a very rigid fender mount. Those fenders aren't going anywhere and don't have much flex. Others, such as the Simple Glide, have a bit more flexibility built into the mounts. That flex is fine while you're riding and doesn't affect anything on its own, but it does mean the fender has room to move closer to the tire than it should.

Typically there's about three-quarters of an inch to an inch of clearance between the fender and the tire. That's enough room in normal use, but if the fender was bumped during shipping or assembly, it can end up close enough to rub. A scraping or hissing sound that matches the wheel's rotation is a strong sign.

The fix is usually one of two things:

• Gentle hand adjustment. Sometimes all a fender needs is a little bit of repositioning by hand. Don't yank on it. Just apply light pressure to move it away from the tire and find the spot where it sits evenly with clearance all the way around.
• Loosen, adjust and retighten. If hand pressure doesn't do it, loosen a couple of the mounting bolts, reposition the fender so it's centered over the tire with even spacing, and tighten the bolts back up.

Here's a little industry secret. When you buy a bike in a store, this is exactly the kind of thing the person building it does before it ever reaches the floor. Fine-tuning gears takes a bit of practice, but most of the rest is just giving a freshly unboxed bike a little attention. You're doing the same thing a shop mechanic would.

If a fender ends up bent or cracked, replacement fenders are available.

The front fender deserves its own mention because it's the one most likely to rub if it isn't installed carefully. The key is in the order of operations during assembly.

When you mount the front fender, push it all the way up as high as it will go before you tighten the screw. You want it seated at the very top of its range so it can't move any higher. That gives you the maximum clearance between fender and tire. If you tighten it while it's sitting low, it may look fine standing still and then rub the moment the tire flexes under your weight or you hit a bump.

There's a balance to strike. From a looks standpoint, you don't want a big gap between fender and tire, because it can look awkward. But you also don't want the tire touching the fender. Pushing it all the way up and then tightening it gets you the best of both.

Even with everything set correctly, a big bump might make a fender tap the tire once or twice. That's expected and not a problem. It's the consistent rubbing on smooth ground that you want to eliminate.

Creaks and Squeaks From the Seat

The seat isn't usually the source of loud or alarming noises, but it can creak, especially if you have a spring-mounted seat. Springs and the joints around them move up and down as you ride, and that motion can produce a squeak or creak, particularly over bumps.

If you hear creaking that seems to come from directly beneath you, check that the seat clamp and seat post bolts are tight. If the noise is coming from the springs themselves, a small amount of lubricant on the pivot points can quiet them down. Wipe off any excess so it doesn't collect dirt.

Some trikes use larger, bench-style or backrest seats rather than a standard bicycle saddle, but the same principle applies: look for anything loose where the seat attaches, and check any moving parts. If you're interested in a different seat for comfort, our sixthreezero seats collection has a range of options.

The crank arms are the two arms that connect your pedals to the front sprocket. They're a core part of the drivetrain, since every pedal stroke goes through them. On some trikes, the chain guard sits fairly close to the crank as well as the chain.

It's not common, but it's possible for a crank arm to brush or scrape against the chain guard at one point in its rotation. Usually this would sound like a scrape once per pedal stroke rather than a continuous noise.

To check, turn the pedals slowly by hand and watch the gap between each crank arm and the chain guard through a full rotation. If nothing touches, you can rule the crank out as a source of the noise. If something does rub, a gentle adjustment to the chain guard usually solves it. Also give the pedals a quick check while you're there, and make sure they're threaded in fully and tight.

What to Do If the Chain Falls Off

Sometimes the noise isn't subtle at all. You hear a clatter, the pedals spin freely, and you look down to find the chain hanging off the front sprocket. It's also possible for a trike to arrive with the chain already off after a rough trip in the box.

If this happens, the first rule is: don't panic. A dropped chain doesn't mean the trike is poorly made. Anyone who grew up riding a 10- or 21-speed bike probably remembers stopping by the side of the road to put a chain back on. It's part of life with a derailleur system. The smaller rear sprockets and the act of shifting mean the chain can occasionally slip off if it's jostled the wrong way.

Putting it back on is straightforward thanks to the derailleur:

• Find the rear derailleur, the spring-loaded arm hanging below the rear sprockets that guides the chain.
• Push the derailleur forward with your hand. You'll see it creates slack in the chain.
• With that slack, it's easy to lift the chain and feed it back onto the teeth of the front sprocket.
• Let go of the derailleur. Its spring will pull the slack back out and put tension on the chain again.
• Turn the pedals slowly by hand to make sure the chain runs smoothly on both the front and rear sprockets.

That same derailleur movement can explain how the chain came off in the first place. If something pushed the derailleur forward during shipping, the chain could go slack and slip right off.

If your chain comes off while you're riding, especially when you shift, that's usually a sign the gears need a little tuning. When the derailleur is properly adjusted, the chain lines up straight with each rear sprocket as you shift. When it's slightly out of adjustment and sits a bit crooked, it can pull the chain off the sprocket. Again, that's not a quality issue. It just means things are out of tune and need to be brought back into line, either at home or by any bike shop.

This one belongs at the end of the troubleshooting list, not the beginning. It's not a common issue, and you should only look into it after ruling out the simpler possibilities we've already covered. But it's worth understanding, because chain tension can be the hidden cause of noise and dropped chains that don't respond to other fixes.

Many trikes, and our four-wheel bikes too, are built with a main front frame and a rear subframe joined by bolts. And unlike a regular bicycle, a trike typically has two chains. One runs from the front sprocket at the pedals back to the rear. A second runs from the motor to the rear axle, which is what drives the wheels. Both chains need to be taut to work well.

The motor and rear sprockets are mounted so that their position can be shifted forward or backward slightly. The adjustment range isn't large, and the factory sets it so the chains grip correctly. But if a chain is a little too loose, it can rattle, slap against the chain guard, and fall off more often than it should.

Here's a scenario where this comes into play. Someone's trike keeps making noise, and the chain keeps coming off. They take it to a shop, and the mechanic checks the derailleur and says it's adjusted correctly. If that's the case, the chain may simply not be tight enough, and the motor needs to be pulled back to take up the slack.

How you do that depends on the model. On some trikes, like the Simple Glide, there's a dedicated tensioning bolt. Tightening it pushes the motor back, which tightens the chain. It's designed so a rider can make that adjustment fairly easily. On other models, you'd loosen some bolts, slide the rear subframe back slightly to add tension, and then retighten everything.

To be clear, the chains come properly tensioned from the factory, and this isn't something you need to check routinely. It's only worth investigating if you're hearing persistent chain noise and the simpler fixes, like checking the chain guard, the fenders, and the gear tuning, haven't solved it. If you're not comfortable loosening frame bolts, this is a good job to hand to a bike shop. If your trike has to carry a lot of weight on a regular basis, it's also worth looking at models in our high weight capacity collection, which are built with that kind of use in mind.

The Sounds That Are Perfectly Normal

Not every noise is a problem to solve. Some sounds are simply part of how a geared electric trike works, and knowing which ones are normal can save you a lot of worry. Drivetrain clicking. Gears on a bike make noise even when they're perfectly tuned. A derailleur system has a chain moving over sprockets and through the derailleur's small guide wheels, and that produces a light, quiet ticking or whirring. It shouldn't be loud or harsh, but it won't be silent either. A drivetrain that's completely noiseless doesn't really exist. Internal gear hub clicking.</strong> Some of our standard, non-electric bikes use an internal three-speed hub instead of a derailleur. Riders sometimes ask about the clicking they hear from those hubs as well. Internal hubs make a soft clicking noise even when they're working exactly as intended. That's just how they operate.Motor hum Electric motors make a sound. How loud depends on the model and the brand. Ours aren't loud, but there is an audible hum. That hum gets louder the faster you go and the more assistance you use, because the motor is working harder. Think of a car: the more you press the gas, the more you hear the engine. A louder motor on a hill or at high assist doesn't mean anything is wrong The rule of thumb: sounds that are consistent, quiet and change smoothly with speed or effort are generally normal. Sounds that are new, loud, harsh, or tied to one specific gear or one spot in the wheel's rotation are worth a closer look.

When you hear something unusual, it helps to work through the possibilities in order, starting with what's quickest to check and most likely to be the cause. Here's a sequence that makes sense for most riders:

1. Remove any leftover packaging. Look under the fenders and around the frame for cardboard, zip ties or foam that didn't get removed during assembly.
2. Listen while braking and while coasting. If the sound happens only when you brake, wipe the rotors. If it's a rub while coasting, look at the brake pads and rotors.
3. Check fender clearance. Spin each wheel and look for spots where the fender gets close to the tire.
4. Trace the chain path. Turn the pedals slowly and watch where the chain passes the chain guard, its mounts and the chain hanger. Nudge anything that touches.
5. Confirm the chain is seated. Make sure it sits fully in the teeth of the front and rear sprockets.
6. Shift through every gear. If the noise appears in some gears and not others, the derailleur needs tuning.
7. Check the basket and seat. Tighten their bolts and consider foam tape under the basket if it rattles over bumps.
8. Watch the cranks. Make sure the crank arms don't touch the chain guard through a full rotation.
9. Check chain tension last. If the chain still rattles or keeps falling off after everything else, it may need more tension from the motor or rear subframe adjustment.

A tip that helps throughout: try to pin down when the noise happens. Does it happen with every wheel turn or every pedal stroke? Only over bumps? Only in certain gears? Only when the motor is assisting? The more precisely you can describe the timing, the faster you, or a mechanic, can find the cause.

When to Get Help

Most of the issues in this article are well within reach for a rider with basic tools and a bit of patience. But there's no prize for doing everything yourself. If you're not sure about an adjustment, or if something involves the brakes and you'd feel better with a professional checking it, a local bike shop is a great option. As mentioned earlier, the derailleur, chain and brake systems on our eTrikes are the same kinds of components found on regular bikes, so you don't need an eBike specialist for most of this work.

Our team is here to help too. If you've worked through the checklist and still can't place a sound, or you'd like someone to talk you through a fix, contact us. Describing when the noise happens, and sending a short video with sound if you can, makes it much easier to figure out what's going on.

It's also good to know what's covered. Our warranty covers parts and labor for the first year, so if something turns out to be a genuine defect rather than a simple adjustment, it's taken care of. And if you're still within the first 30 days of owning your trike and it just isn't working for you, our 30-day test ride lets you send it back.

For more maintenance guides, riding tips and model comparisons, browse the Bike Advice section. And if you haven't bought a trike yet and want help choosing one that fits your body and riding style, our fitting tool is a good place to start. Riders looking for extra stability and easy mounting can also look at our electric trikes for seniors.

A new noise on a new trike can be unsettling, but it's rarely a sign of anything serious. Brakes squeal because of residue or hard-wearing pads. Rotors rub because the clearance is tight on purpose. Chains tap guards, fenders get nudged, baskets vibrate, and derailleurs drift a hair out of tune after a long trip in a box. All of these are normal parts of owning a bike, and all of them are fixable.

A few minutes with a hex key, a rag and a careful eye will take care of most of what you hear. For the rest, a bike shop or our support team can get you sorted. Once your trike is dialed in, the only sounds you should notice are the soft whir of the drivetrain, the hum of the motor, and the road rolling by underneath you.